An oasis of luxe beckons at the Island's rugged coastline


The air is thick with mist as we climb up the wooden steps to our suite. In late May it’s 
still cool, fir branches heavy with recently fallen rain, the milky-white sky blending into
the calm stretch of ocean. But somehow the grey dampness doesn’t bother us here; in fact
it melds so harmoniously with the serene surroundings that it’s hard to imagine it any
different, the tranquility of it almost meditative. Damp ozone freshness fills our lungs,
and we are reminded of what it truly means to take a breath.

We are in Parksville, BC, on the eastern shorelines of Vancouver Island. A short ferry
ride away from the city of Vancouver, the Island is a favorite weekend respite for stressed
Vancouverites looking to rough it in the beautiful BC wilderness – think fishing,
kayaking, and the thrill of meeting the occasional bear. For some of us, however, getting
too intimate with the great outdoors is an experience that’s closer to torture than R&R –
which is why right now I’m thankful to be enjoying the island’s natural beauty at the
Tigh-na-Mara Resort and Spa, my getaway of choice for a weekend in the wilderness.

Sprawled across 22 acres of lush forests and log bungalows, the oceanfront resort manages to harness the Pacific Northwest’s rough appeal into an uplifted experience that’s nothing short of blissful. Every element, from room décor to spa products to the beautifully simple food takes full advantage of the incredible abundance of local resources. Our room with its wooden accents, gorgeous carved branch headboard, and stone-inlaid fireplace is a study in rustic minimalism. But perhaps the best part of the décor is the endless expanse of ocean and sand stretching out in front of our balcony. This area is famous for its extremely low tides, and we see it now – steel blue waters rolled away towards the horizon, revealing miles of surreal-looking sands dotted with tidal pools, like something out of a Dali painting. Children and dogs splash in the warm puddles, and for a moment I am tempted to throw off my shoes and join in.

But we’ve got important plans in-store. After changing we head down to the Grotto Spa
for a pre-dinner soak in its famous Mineral Pool. This is the largest spa in North America
– and the lusciously warm 2500 square foot pool, nestled in among the grotto’s carved rock walls and cascading waterfalls, is its main attraction. The minerals and trace elements are said to have anti-inflammatory qualities, help rid the body of toxins, and soothe various aches and pains. I am certainly a believer – while soaking in the cocooning warmth it’s difficult enough to formulate a thought, let alone remember any ailments that may have been afflicting me.

After a Pacific sea salt scrub down, and a cup of Whistlerberry tea in the fireplace-lit relaxation lounge, it’s time for dinner, so I throw on the provided plush bathrobe and head out to meet my husband. That’s right – the Grotto Spa’s own restaurant, Treetop Tapas, is robe attire only, so you can enjoy your meal with the comfort of slurping Froot Loops at your breakfast table. But lest all that indulgence starts setting off your internal guilt alarm, rest assured: the food here is decadent in taste only, and dinner won’t set back efforts on the cross-trainer. This is California-style spa cuisine at its best, with a Pacific Northwest twist: small portions of fresh, locally-sourced, and nutritionally-sound dishes. Endless Tapas gets you an all-you-can-eat selection of miniature plates, and we indulge, making our way through the array of flavors: prawns in a strawberry Baja Rosa sauce, local venison with wild berry compote and squash risotto, crispy avocado-filled wontons, and too many others to possibly remember. The finale is every girl’s dream: a selection of swoon-worthy, guilt-free desserts, including a particularly divine silky yet light-as-air chocolate cheesecake. Afterwards, we step out into the cool evening and lazily make our way through the tree-lined paths back to the suite, where a steaming Jacuzzi soak awaits before bedtime.

The next morning I wake up to streaming sunlight breaking its way through the damp
clouds of yesterday. Climbing out of the soft sheets and into a fluffy robe, I head to the
shower, then make a cup of coffee and slide out onto the balcony. The ocean, now in high
tide, laps peacefully at the shore and though the air is still brisk, the sky is a sparkling
blue, warmed up by still-timid rays. Settling into a patio chair I lean back and inhale the
coffee’s delicious aroma. Man, this wilderness thing sure is tough…


Photo credit: Tigh-na-Mara Resort and Spa